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Here is a remarkably sophisticated though dead simple take on classic dude food: chicken wings that work just as well in front of a football game on the television as at a Chinese New Year party. They are sweet, spicy, sticky, fragrant and full-flavored, and they have a fine, shiny lacquered coat. Top with a scallion and cucumber relish spiked with roasted peanuts, sesame oil and hot red peppers. A bed of sliced juicy navel oranges can serve as a foil to the spicy heat.
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