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You either like Manhattan clam chowder or you don’t. James Beard famously called it “horrendous.” But the chowder has its fans — the acidity of the tomatoes helps temper the salinity of the broth, and offers a pleasing sweetness besides. Green peppers and carrots add to the effect, and the garlic and red-pepper flakes speak to New York’s immigrant past. It is certainly not a new development in the long history of clam chowder. Recipes for similar red-hued versions date back to the days of Delmonico’s in the late 19th century.
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