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Kumquats are small, sharp fruits. They can be eaten raw, skin and all, or cooked down with a little sugar to temper the sour taste. The skins soften but keep a faint bite, not unlike the shreds in marmalade. The sweetness is just enough, but not so much as to make it jam-like. You can make this recipe festive with the addition of 2 cloves and a star anise, if it is that time of year. The trick to achieving a thin pancake is to tip the pan in a swift, steady roll as soon as the batter hits the pan. You should be able to guide and swirl the batter into an even layer. The first attempt always ends up as a sacrifice to the god of pancakes.
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